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Books : Men's Garments 1830-1900: A Guide to Pattern Cutting and Tailoring |
- Fabulous Resource!This book is the first book I turn to for period tailoring. The drafts create wonderful period shapes. It is invaluable to me as a costumer. It is a MUST HAVE in any serious costumer's library.
Please note that this book is for DRAFTING PATTERNS. It contains little information on how to tailor a coat. Pattern drafts are available for:
1. Dress Coats
2. Frock coats and Morning Coats
3. Jackets
4. Trousers, Pantaloons, and Knickerbreeches
5. Waistcoats (Vests)
6. Topcoats
(this list is taken directly from the table of contents)
So why not 5 stars?
The book uses the same sleeve or collar draft for several different coats. However, at the end of each draft, it doesn't tell you where the corresponding sleeve or collar draft is. It is irritating to have to go searching for it. It would have taken one little line of text referring to a page number. Someday when I have nothing better to do and a good chunk of time, I will go through and write in such information.
Additionally, the drafts don't always let you know exactly what you are drafting and how it relates to the body. Most of the drafts have a dropped shoulder line, for example, but you don't know how far it is dropped and are therefore unsure where to balance the sleeve.
It is hard to have the draft picture and instructions on different pages, which happens frequently. I will usually copy one or the other so I don't have to keep flipping back and forth.
I have a few suggestions which might make the drafts results better.
This book creates a draft almost solely based on the chest measurement, using fractions of the chest measurement in order to find certain distances. This works well on a well-proportioned gentleman. Beware, however, of using this draft straight-up for a man whose chest measurement is the same or smaller than their waist! Always check the waist when you are finished drafting. You may have to adjust.
Another suggestion is to go ahead and preemptively drop the lower armscye 1.5"! I have no idea how any man could look good with their coat bunching up in their armpit. R.I. Davis knows his stuff, but on this point he confuses me. You will be happy you don't have to re-draft the sleeve later.
I have used this book for a few years now and wouldn't go anywhere without it. It is available on and off from Amazon but it can be found elsewhere new for around $30. Contact me if you need more information.
Rating:
- Drafting men's period clothingI borrowed this book from a fellow cutter to make late Victorian men's frock coats and trousers. I was so pleased with the final garments, I purchased the book for myself.
A good resource; the drafting information is easy to follow and the garments stitch together effortlessly. I did not need to grade the patterns I used, but it looks as if it'll be a piece of cake.
Get this book!
Rating:
- Tailoring bookThis is a great resource. It is not for the beginner, and theater costume construction experience is helpful in order to understand the techniques
used in the book. Highly recommended.
Rating:
- useful, informative for theatrical costumerI was very excited to get this book as there doesn't seem to be much written on period menswear.This is an excellent book for theatrical costumers (the section on pattern sizing is particularly useful). However, the serious student or historic re-creator will be frustrated by the theatrical conventions of some of the patterns...the 18th century breeches come to mind. For these, I would recommend _Costume _Close_Up for graghs of actual 18th century garments. Still, with this caveat, this is one of the books that I have been "hanging out with" lately.
Rating:
- Great for pattern draftingI found this to be a great book for the person who loves to draft patterns. Being a costume/fashion design student and an excellent pattern drafter, the books instructions are very easy to follow and understand. Although it gives somes tips on contstruction in certain areas of the garment, I wish books of this nature would offer more construction information.
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